图文品牌 卡地亚Coloratura...

卡地亚Coloratura珠宝:色彩飨宴

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卡地亚白金,红碧玺,电气石,金绿宝石和钻石Holika戒指

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【新三才编译首发】卡地亚的Coloratura系列珠宝,展现了丰富多元的视觉与色彩飨宴。有些宝石的历史甚至可以追溯到几个世纪以前,曾经装饰过某位王君的头饰。

卡地亚Laterna项链:由黄金、雕刻红碧玺、玉髓、绿玉髓、绿玉石、橙石榴石、玛瑙和钻石打造而成。

在Laterna项链的中央穿上212克拉的红碧玺,丰满的球状,像一个微型南瓜,其内部由专业的glyptique(硬石雕刻)工匠雕刻,以创造最珍贵的香水瓶,其镶有钻石皇冠,并由雕刻玉髓吊坠串成,玛瑙和钻石链接绿玉髓和绿玉石。灯笼般的形状是为了向传统的日本节日致敬。

卡地亚Chromaphonia项链:由白金、祖母绿、尖晶石、石榴石、绿松石、玛瑙和钻石打造而成。

来自阿富汗的22颗巴洛克式翡翠珠子为设计团队的一名成员带来了灵感,他们在她的祖国匈牙利传统的褶皱民谣裙子中认出了他们新鲜的绿色色调和不规则形状。由此产生的Chromaphonia项链可以看到所有199克拉的顶部饰有橘色石榴石珠子,并由尖晶石、钻石、绿松石和玛瑙串联,呈现出愉悦的色彩。

卡地亚Holika手炼:由白金、红碧玺、金绿宝石、蓝碧玺、粉红碧玺和钻石打造而成。

Holika手炼是为了向印度教春节Holi致敬,其中狂欢者用鲜艳的颜料互相浸透。酸亮的碧玺和金绿宝石珠子像珍珠一样穿在一起,然后安装在宽大的环形耳环、手镯和戒指上,后两个镶有鲜艳欲滴的红宝石。

卡地亚Kanaga项链:由白金,尖晶石,尖晶石珠和钻石打造而成。

Kanaga项链中有更多的珠子,三角形和长方形切割钻石的线性下垂由多股尖晶石珠子组成,像西非多贡人的几何木制面具下的流苏礼服一样摇曳。尽管它表面上看起来非常简洁,但它是最复杂的套件之一,因为尖晶石珠必须精确匹配尺寸和色调才能悬挂在如此精确的柱子中。

「一件作品看起来越简单,就越难制作。」卡地亚高级珠宝设计负责人卡拉奇(Jacqueline Karachi)说。「每个珠子都是不同的,因为它们是手工雕刻的,所以使用不规则的石头进行这种非常规则的设计是一个巨大的挑战。但最终作品也因此更加生动起来。」

卡地亚Matsuri项链:由铂金、蛋白石、电气石、电气石珠和钻石打造而成。

这种传统的手工艺与计算机辅助设计相结合,创造出更精确、更细致的珠宝。在Matsuri项链中,一系列相互连接的V形饰物在一侧饰有钻石,在另一侧饰有玛瑙,营造出3D错视效果。在电气石珠子项链上的凸圆形切蛋白石下面,点缀著蛋白石和微小的碧玺,它们看起来像美人鱼尾巴的鳞片,仿佛乞求人们地抚摸。

使用碧玺而不是祖母绿,使卡地亚著名的绿色和黑色搭配更加清新。这些微妙的色彩在整个Coloratura系列中都可以发现。

卡地亚Orienphonie秘密手表:由白金、珊瑚珠、玛瑙和钻石打造而成。

除了传统的Tutti Frutti围兜项链,雕刻祖母绿、蓝宝石和红宝石来打造出一个更轻,更女性化的版本,使用较少饱和的宝石。标志性的「卡地亚」组合:珊瑚和玛瑙,红宝石和钻石,以及新的意想不到的调色:柔和的粉红色摩根石和绿色蛋白石、薰衣草蓝玉髓和平切钻石。

「所有这些都是卡地亚的颜色,即使它们之前没有使用过,因为卡地亚风格是如此多变。」卡拉奇说。「我们有大量的宝石颜色可供搭配。我们不会想太多,这是非常本能的。」当然,高级珠宝客户现在更愿意在传统的「四大」宝石(钻石、祖母绿、红宝石和蓝宝石)之外进行投资。

吉野戒指:由白金、摩根石、蛋白石、粉红色蓝宝石和钻石打造而成。

「在过去,我们可能不会混合这样的颜色,但现在一切皆有可能。」卡拉奇说。「我们将非常有价值的宝石与不太重要的宝石混合在一起,因为颜色的影响比价值问题重要得多——价值在于艺术性。所有的宝石都很漂亮,但很遗憾不能全部都一起使用。」

(编译:王明真)

(责任编辑:姜启明)

(文章来源:新三才编译首发)

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